Climbing Shoe Guide

Guide on how to pick the right vegan climbing shoes...

Are they vegan?

Confirmed Vegan

What do we mean by confirmed vegan? We have been in touch with the manufacturer, and they have told us that the shoe, as well as it’s glues, and dyes, do not contain any products derived from an animal. On top of that there is a publicly available declaration that the shoe is vegan.

Probably Vegan

We have been told that they are vegan but I has not seen any publicly available data to confirm that the shoe is vegan though they are almost certainly leather free.

Not Vegan

We are almost certain that the product contains animal derived products, in the glue, dyes, or even in the form of leather. Sometime there can be leather on the inside. Though some companies have still not returned our contact so we will put there products under not vegan until we have more information.

Selecting the right Profile?

Neutral Profile

Shoes are ideal for beginners as they are more forgiving on weak toes and feet, but they're also suitable for multi-pitch routes, big wall climbing, slab climbing and crack climbing.

You'll get the most comfort, so the longer you can wear it without pain. There's also technical advantages to a neutral shape, it is able to slot into foot jams while crack climbing, and the most surface area for smearing.

Moderate Profile

Performance comes from the middle ground. A moderate camber or even just a small downturn in the toe will provide a balance of vertical and overhanging performance, comfort and power.

You'll not be able to pull on the feet on the most steepest of climbs as the most aggressive profiled shoes, and not quite as good at smearing, or comfort as the neutral profiled shoe.

Aggressive Profile

On overhanging, and steep territory the foot is put into a hooking position, allows the foot to pull on holds into the wall or roof with much less effort and energy than a flat-profiled shoe would.

What you gain in performance in the the steep terrain, you'll lose on the slabs and vertical. Not an all round shoe for sure, but peek perform on a overhang yes!

Selecting the right Asymmetry?

Low Asymmetry

The low asymmetry shoe is going to offer the best comfort, smearing and for foot jamming cracks.

Moderate Asymmetry

The Moderate asymmetry shoe is going to offer a bit more precision in putting power down into small holds, losing some smearing abilities, and comfort.

High Asymmetry

The high asymmetry shoe is going to give the most precision in putting power though your bit toe, making micro edges feel bigger.

Very unlikely to ever be needed indoors, these shoes will be the least comfortable of the all, and hard to smear in.

Selecting the right Midsole?

Soft Midsole

ideal for short boulder routes and technical climbing as their supple design allows the shoe to bend and flex to stay hooked onto steep holds as well as perform a technical toe-hooking maneuver. A softer midsole excels at smearing, so perfect for the gym and the parkour style of climbing

With minimum foot support, this can be quite fatiguing if you're on the vertical wall, on long routes, or will be edging on the smallest of foot holds this isn't the midsole for you.

Medium-Stiffness Midsole

The all-round middle road for some edging support, and also the flexibility to smear, and crack climb as it allows you to twist and lock the shoe within the crack.

With it being the middle of the road it will not excel at edging, or smearing. Just giving the ability to do both to a good level.

Stiff Midsole

ideal for both longer climbs and edging where they minimize foot and calf fatigue and increase stability. The extra foot support reduces the amount of energy required by you to stand and balance on the smallest edge.

Multi-pitch climbers (considering it's not on slab) will benefit from a harder midsole, as well as anyone purely climbing vertical routes where a considerable amount of weight is loaded onto the feet.

The main disadvantage to the stiff midsole is smearing and getting lots of rubber on the wall will be hard. There's not many boulders that would benefit from a stiff midsole for example.

Selecting the right Rubber?

Soft Rubber

If you’re looking to stick, then look no further. The softer the rubber the more you'll stick, better for smearing you're way up indoor volumes and more for the competition parkour style boulder problems.

Though a lot of these rubbers are designed for the indoors they also work well outside where smearing is what you need.

If you weight over 75kg don't bother with these softer rubbers as they will wear out too fast, it's also not the best for most outside climbing on small edges.

List of the soft rubbers.

Manufacturer	Model	Stiffness	Description
Unparallel	VD	SOFT	UP VD (Virtual Demping) has superior properties that provide unparalleled friction. Super sensitive under foot, this rubber is truly a secret weapon for anyone looking for the send.
La Sportiva	FriXion® BLACK	SOFT	Their stiff FriXion rubber which is used on budget shoes including the Tarantulace and the Oxygym. Described as an ‘ultra sticky performance compound’ that puts performance over durability. From our experience, we find that FriXion black tends to preform better on plastic than rock.
La Sportiva	FriXion Eco	SOFT	The FriXion eco preforms very similar to the black, but uses recycled components and off cuts from production that would usually have to be the discarded. This rubber is found on La Sportiva Eco shoes including the Cobra Eco and Mythos Eco.
Five Ten	Stealth Hf	SOFT	Extremely sensitive. Meant for great overhangs and bouldering problems. It is also extremely sticky and comparable to the Vibram XS Grip 2. This is found usually on high performance shoes like the Team 5.10s, blackwings and the 5.10 Dragon. Definitely a rubber you'd want to have if you are a professional climber or someone wanting to up your climbing from intermediate to expert.
Five Ten	Stealth Mi6	SOFT	Literally designed to smear on glass, Mi6 is categorically the stickiest rubber on the market. Unfortunately, the rubber is so soft that even a light climber will burn through it quickly. Regardless, pasty smears and overhung climbing make the lack of durability worth every penny. Found on the Five Ten VXi and Anasazi Pro, this rubber excels on overhung, pocketed limestone and is destroyed by granite.
Scarpa	S-72	SOFT	S72 is a high friction rubber, developed and tested by SCARPA. This soft compound gives a Shore A rating of 72, making it very adaptable to any surface and providing an excellent mechanical keying effect. S72 works equally well on rock and on Indoor walls.

Semi-Stiff Rubber

If you weight over 75kg this will be your soft rubber so see above. Otherwise this is the all round rubber designed to be good at edging, and smearing but a master of none. Probably your best option for smooth sandstone outdoors, giving good grip, and durability.

List of the average rubbers.

Manufacturer	Model	Stiffness	Description
EB	Optimax	AVERAGE	More resistant to abrasion, this rubber will accompany the climber throughout his progress and training.
So iLL	dark matter	AVERAGE	Dark Matter rubber was originally developed for the Navy Seals, to ensure foot placement on the most treacherous approaches.
EB	Daytona	AVERAGE	The Daytona offers top-of-the-line grip and durability, while ensuring maximum feel, in 4-5mm thickness. The grip is reassuring and efficient! The rubber coating will give you good foot support inside the liner, from toe to heel.
EB	Optima	AVERAGE	More resistant to abrasion, this rubber will accompany the climber throughout his progress and training.
Evolv	TRAX SAS	AVERAGE	Perhaps the best blend of stickiness and durability, this rubber lasts much longer than C4 or XS Grip 2, making it a good choice for the money sensitive boot buyer. That said, it does not stick as well as XS Grip 2 nor C4, and the edge will roll if the climber is heavy and standing on a small edge. This rubber is best used inside.
Unparallel	RS	AVERAGE	UP RS (Real Supreme) is about finding the balance between the higher performance needs required for steeper overhanging lines. Super sticky, this compound has a little more roll under foot, so is better suited to climbs that are off-vertical.
La Sportiva	FriXion RS	AVERAGE	FriXion RS is a technology that is designed and built from a variety of compounds and made of sticky rubber for maximum performance.
Vibram	XS Grip	AVERAGE	Vibram XS Grip rubber is a sticky compound on the stiffer side of the spectrum. Found on many Tenaya shoes, climbers like Jimmy Webb, Alex Megos, and Chris Sharma have taken a liking to the combination of stick and stiffness that goes into this classic sole. The density and stickiness of this rubber makes it versatile for all rock types, though it is weak at toeing in.
Vibram	XS Grip 2	AVERAGE	Manufactured by the industry’s leading rubber manufacturer, Vibram’s XS Grip 2 is one of the most popular compounds on sale today. Found on shoes like the La Sportiva Solution, the Scarpa Drago, and the Scarpa Furia Air, its versatility is difficult to match. Not quite making the cut as a soft rubber, this sticky compound offers a nice balance between edging and overhung-climbing performance. It should be noted that the softest shoes in the Scarpa and La Sportiva ranges use this rubber. This rubber is an all rounder that excels on friction dependent sandstone smears and edges.
Five Ten	Stealth C4	AVERAGE	The most commonly used rubber for most of 5.10 shoes including the Anasazis. It is extremely sticky, comparable to the Vibram XS Grip 2 ( I think everyone is on the fence with this. Some thinks the stealth is stickier others think the vibram is. So I'd like to think they are about the same). Good for smearing and edging as well. All around versatility and performance.
EB	Spider	AVERAGE	The high friction rubber allows you to grasp on to the smallest foothold and edge your way onto angled terrain; this versatile compound supports climbers as they cruise up the most technical terrain.
Boreal	Zenith	AVERAGE	Zenith rubber is a high performance rubber developed by Boreal. Zenith is designed for no-compromise performance, and features incredible friction properties combined with an ability to hold micro edges. This ultimate compound is featured on our highest performance rock shoe models.
Ocun	CAT 1.5	AVERAGE	At 2017 OutDoor expo in Friedrichschafen, we present our new rubber sole called CAT (Climbing Adhesion Technology), which was developed with the particular aim of achieving maximum friction. We currently use two types of rubber sole compound on our climbing shoes: the more adhesive CAT 1.5 and the slightly harder CAT 1.1.
Wild Climb	Wild Performance	AVERAGE	Wild climb's own rubber, their more performance rubber.
Wild Climb	AltAderenza	AVERAGE	Continuous research and testing. If power is in the fingers then control is in the rubber. Honestly, what use is all that power without control? We are constantly developing and testing future compounds; take Altaderenza for example, our new compound that equips the new BAT: to try it is to know.
Red Chili	RX2	AVERAGE	Red Chilli's own rubber. For a more all round rubber.
Red Chili	RX1	AVERAGE	An all round rubber by Red Chilli.
Acopa	RS I	AVERAGE	The original RS is all about delivering the best possible performance on natural rock.
Acopa	RS II	AVERAGE	The RS II is designed to resist the wear and tear of indoor climbing holds and is just a bit harder than the RS rubber.
Tenaya	Generic	AVERAGE	Tenaya just call it rubber. No information available.

Stiff Rubber

If you weigh under 55kg (120lb) these rubbers could feel like wooden clogs, and you may want to consider a semi-stiff rubber as your stiff rubber. Otherwise these rubbers are the work horses of climbing shoes. The rubber will last the longest, offer the most support, for all day multi pitching, and edge on the smallest of foot holds.

These rubbers do trade off some of there abilities to smear, and to feel to rock under your feet. Though the manufacturer can make the rubber thinner to make up for this.

List of the stiff rubbers.

Manufacturer	Model	Stiffness	Description
Unparallel	RA	STIFF	unbeatable hardness for precision edging, stickness for friction and exceptional durability.
Mad Rock	Science Friction 3.0	STIFF	Years after the launch of the first Mad Rock rubber formula, our new Science Friction 3.0 compound marks a special milestone for the Mad Rock brand. After exhaustive research and a new production process originating in the USA, our new formula has distinctively different characteristics than our previous batches. More durable than any of our previous formulas, our new Science Friction 3.0 also boasts higher friction. This optimal balance is incorporated into our new mix by increasing the tear strength and the memory of the compound. Due to its unique characteristics and unparalleled performance, our new Science Friction 3.0 formula is used on our shoe components like the 3D Hooking Heel, 3D Concave Sole as well as the soles in all of our rock shoes
Vibram	XS Edge	STIFF	Developed to provide maximum edging support, Vibram XS EDGE compound delivers improved durability, excellent precision grip while adding higher level of firmness for the most challenging of edging moves. Thanks to an improved resistance to distortion, it maintains its shape even on the smallest edges. Vibram XS EDGE maintains its consistent feel in both hot and cold temperatures. Recommended for situations when support is the priority.
Evolv	TRAX XE	STIFF	This compound from Evolv is unlikely to be the climber’s favorite rubber. It is stiff, but becomes glassy easily, though it is the most durable compound.
Unparallel	RH	STIFF	UP RH (Real Honour) offers climbers the perfect balance between stickiness and durability. Perfect when you are looking for a rubber than can handle all terrain with unparalleled confidence in their footwork. SHORE A DUROMETER: 76-80 \| REBOUND: 13% \| DIN ABRASION: 290
Wild Climb	Wild durability	STIFF	Stiffer more durable rubber. Wild countries own rubber.
Five Ten	Stealth XX	STIFF	A hard rubber that is comparable to the Vibram XS Edge. It is meant for precision edging and durability. It also seems to get a good review for "stickiness". The 5.10 arrowhead uses this rubber.
Boreal	FS Quattro	STIFF	FS Quattro rubber is a specific formulation developed by Boreal. It was designed to provide consistent high performance over a wide temperature range, and to offer a long life span. This highly versatile rubber is ideal for all-round rock shoes, with a perfect blend of high friction and durability.
Ocun	CAT 1.1	STIFF	At 2017 OutDoor expo in Friedrichschafen, we present our new rubber sole called CAT (Climbing Adhesion Technology), which was developed with the particular aim of achieving maximum friction. We currently use two types of rubber sole compound on our climbing shoes: the more adhesive CAT 1.5 and the slightly harder CAT 1.1.
Black Diamond	BD - Durable	STIFF	4.3mm rubber is built for durability and molded for optimal consistency and performance
Scarpa	Vision	STIFF	SCARPA’s Vision rubber, a proprietary compound that is both sticky and resilient to all the conditions that new climbers will experience.